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Italy: Day 13 – Civita di Bagnoregio

March 14, 2010

THURSDAY, April 24, Umbria & Lazio


I really, really want to go to the S’Antimo Abbey and Montalcino today, but decide against it since the drive might be too far. There’s always the next trip, we decide. Instead, we head to Civita di Bagnoregio, a town that’s only accessible by a long footbridge. There are only 14 full-time residents of the town now, according to Rick Steves.

Today is the day we’re cursed! An old woman is sitting on one of the streets, and insistently motions us into a courtyard to look at some old tools. When we come out, she motions for money. I give her the coins I have in my pocket, which isn’t much, maybe one or two euro. She shakes her fist at us and lets loose a string of what I assume are ancient Italian curses.

From Civita, we head to Lake Bolsena, where we spend some time at the beach park and hit some shops. This is the town where the miracle commemorated in Orvieto actually happened, but we decide against another church visit.

On the way back to Orvieto, we stop for lunch at a restaurant about 5 miles outside of town. The parking lot has several trucks in it, and it seems like a local hang-out. The menu is heavy on game and game sauces. With nothing on the menu that I particularly like, I order the antipasta with hope. No such luck – it’s yucky, even to Charlie (but remember, we’re not into the cured meats of Italy). Charlie’s pasta with truffle sauce is okay, but the truffle is too strong for him to really love it.

All in all, a wonderfully relaxing end to our time in Italy.

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